Once in a rare while, while shopping, you will find an item that is priced so ridiculously low that you’ll have to convince yourself thata). there’s an obvious pricing mistake made by an employee, b). a mischievous person switched price tags, c). there must be something wrong with the item, or d). you must be just plain lucky to be at the right time and place.
Exactly two weeks before Black Friday (the day after Thanksgiving) of this year while doing my early morning grocery shopping at the retail chain store that made someone from Oklahoma spectacularly rich and famous, two (2) sealed boxes of Linksys AC1200+ Gigabit Router sat among other gadgets atop one of the shelves in the electronics department.
I was there to get some eggs, milk, a few cans of Spam & some other ingredients for a seafood dinner as well as new SkinGuard razor blades. But, definitely, not shopping for any electronics that particular day.
But, for a tech-junkie, how can I pass-up and not buy a brand-new, in still-sealed-box Linksys dual-band router with 4 Gigabit Ethernet ports & a USB 3.0 port — for just $17 ????
It’s an older model alright -after I check on the product specs on my phone- but, nonetheless grabbed a box and headed off to the nearest price scanner to verify the price. It was not a mirage. It was really $17.
Back at home, I pondered what to do with my latest score. I already have two latest model Netgear routers as well as indoor & outdoor Hawking WiFi extenders – already a bit too much for such a small area of about 5K square feet.
Three days after my purchase, I had decided just to store the still-sealed router in the attic –as a backup unit.
It was only after three weeks that I would find out that the $17 Linksys router would serve as my new indoor WiFi extender after I discovered that the Hawking was no longer functioning.
Tying it up with my other 2 Netgear routers & making it operate as a dedicated WiFi extender -to the 2nd NG router that serves as an access point– was a bit tricky and took a bit of time.
Last week, Don, my brother-in-law picked up his metallic deep-blue Tesla Model 3 from one the company’s showrooms –they sell their cars direct and not through a dealership– in Fremont, California.
A year ago, he had put up a US$ 1,000 deposit for the promised US$35, 000 Model 3 unit that had just gotten off Tesla’s designers drawing boards and into production mode at that time.
The Tesla Model 3 was supposed to catapult the fledgling company into the mainstream car market.
All their previous models, the Roadster, the Model S as well as the Model X (an SUV – sports utility vehicle) are relatively expensive that only a few middle-income American consumers could to afford it.
Tesla had been in the forefront in the rebirth of the all-electric vehicle boom that had seen the release of competing models from the big Japanese and European car makers -notably Nissan (the ‘Leaf‘) and BMW (the i3 – with the latest release, a 2-cylinder ‘range extender’ engine is now just optional )- as well as from the top 2 American car firms — General Motors (the Chevy ‘Bolt‘) and Ford (coming up with its ‘CUV‘).
As it turned out, Tesla’s promised consumer-friendly price tag of US$35,000 for the Model 3 ‘base model’ ballooned to almost US$57,000 after the company failed in its promise to offer one with the ‘standard batteries‘ during the consumer rollout.
Eager to drive home with his Model 3, Don was literally compelled to buy a more expensive unit with long-range (up to 310 miles) batteries + premium exterior with rear-wheel drive. His choice of color, deep blue metallic (extra $1500), alloy sports wheels (extra $1500) set him back another $3,000 plus all the taxes and fees.
The price would have gone even so much higher had he opted for one with an all-wheel drive (extra $6,000 for the ‘basic’ all-wheel drive and extra $15,000 for the ‘performance’ all-wheel drive) & enhanced Autopilot (extra $5,000).
After all the extras, a fully loaded, top-of-the-line Model 3 goes for about $75,500 before all the taxes and fees –and that’s not a price for the average consumer. For all that money, you could buy four (4) brand-new (latest model) Toyota Corollas and still have a few thousands left in your pocket.
So for the US$57K price he shelled out -before Federal & State tax incentives- Don’s Model 3 car should, at least, be impressive. It is but not without some drawbacks.
Most electric cars have impressive torques and the rear-wheel drive Model 3 can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in about 5.1 seconds. The car’s handling was also impressive as the 19″ wheels were big enough to mitigate some road imperfections.
You can’t say enough praise for all the tech goodies inside and outside the car with its gaggle of radars, sensors, cameras, software updates for the touchscreen control panel as well as the very impressive all-glass roof. All of the Model 3’s glass parts including the windows were made by Saint-Gobain Sekurit which traces its roots all the way back to 1665 in France as the Royal Glass Works.
And, as this is an all-electric vehicle, you tend to rely less on the brakes to slow down the car —just release your foot on the accelerator and you accomplish two things: 1). slows the car down to halt and 2). you charge the batteries (regenerative braking).
Let’s get to the things that I didn’t like about the Tesla Model 3:
Firstly, the door handles. Opening a door is a two-handed affair. What??? You have the push the recessed handle with one hand and grab the handle’s end once it pops out with your other hand —yes, just to open a door.
Second, there is no manual override just to open the glovebox compartment. To open it, you to have to turn on the touchscreen tablet (which acts as the sole instrument panel and controls everything inside the car) and push the ‘open glovebox‘ button. Too cool but also too dumb. Any determined thief can simply use a screwdriver and force it open.
Third, and as mentioned above, the car relied too much on the 15″ touchscreen tablet located right smack in the center of the dashboard. I honestly believe that Tesla did it to cut cost in guise of the ‘cool factor’.
This is specially too distracting when driving around the city as you have to deal with all the functionalities of the car on a touchscreen panel. As if texting while driving is just not bad enough.
Fourth, for the steep price tag on any premium variants of the Tesla Model 3, real leather seats should be standard. As it is, the ‘premium interior’ model could only boast of a faux leather in black.
Lastly, except for topping-off the windshield washer fluid, there’s nothing a Tesla Model 3 owner who’s keen on maintaining the car himself can do much. Most of the other end-user replaceable parts & fluids are either hidden underneath the car’s chassis –where the engine sits in your typical internal combustion vehicle is now a front luggage compartment- or, not that easily accessible.
This means that if ever the car needs even the most simple maintenance, you may have to take it back to a Tesla dealership. Bottom line: costlier upkeep.
There are other minor flaws that needs no mentioning and can be ignored but the ones above are just simply too obvious to be overlooked.
After all, Tesla’s mass production model cars -starting with the 2012 Model S- had only been around for just a few years. Improvements should come in their next iterations of those models.
That is, if -with their massive debt and government subsidies in the form of tax incentives that’s ending soon- they will remain viable and, most importantly, become profitable, as a company in the coming years.
Old habits die hard and R/C flying is one of them.
Since I caught the aerial remote-control bug during my almost 4-year stint in Saudi Arabia in the early 80s, I had really never forgotten this sometimes expensive hobby. They say that in the heart of hearts of adventurous people lie the extreme desire to fly like birds.
R/C flying had come a long way since the days of gas-powered COX engines and radio controllers with telescopic antennas –with small banners attached to them that denoted the radio frequencies.
In today’s world dominated by computers, software, cell phones and other Internet-connected devices, it comes as no surprise that the hobby of R/C flying had also evolved to take advantage of them.
Today, you no longer need a dedicated controller to operate an R/C device –a smartphone and the appropriate app will do it for you. Changing crystals (to change radio frequency transmission) inside the transmitters are so passé –almost all new R/C these days have Wi-Fi built-in (mostly, at 2.4 GHz) and utilize that same wireless frequency to connect to the smartphone. Bluetooth is also built-in for pairing with a dedicated remote controller for easier flying.
More sophisticated but expensive models incorporate a GPS, 1080p or 4K cameras propped on small but high-end gimbals as well as a gaggle of extras for easy maneuvering even at long-range distances. Not to mention longer flight times as well as apps with sophisticated features.
Currently, a Chinese company called DJI dominates the aerial R/C market and had relegated the term ‘R/C’ into something more futuristic — ‘drone‘.
The drone market had literally exploded in the last six or so years after amateur and professional photographers alike had made them an essential part of their toolkits to take visually-stunning aerial photos and video footages.
DJI not only makes a variety of off-the-shelf hobbyist drones that caters to everyone’s budget but also custom-made ones depending on the application — be it in military, science, agriculture, engineering, and of course, the movie industry.
To capture the lowest end of the hobbyist drone market, DJI partnered with Intel and Shenzhen, China-based Ryze Tech and brought out the Ryze Tello.
It’s a vision positioning system-equipped US$99 toy-hobbyist drone with a programmable Intel processor as well as a 5-megapixel 720p camera (at 30 fps) -not sure though, if some Hasselblad technologies were incorporated after DJI bought into the Swedish camera company in 2015- as well as some other tech goodies packed in 80 grams -battery included- of good-quality plastic and miniature circuit boards.
It’s basically a very, very small home computer with a nice webcam that flies.
What makes this little toy drone so fun is that it won’t hurt your pocketbook so much if ever you crash or lose it. But, it’s so stable to fly that the only way you can lose or damage it is to fly it in very windy conditions.
In actual use, the Ryze Tello flies for a good 10 minutes -specs say 13 mins.- on a full charge with a range of about 100 meters. But hacks like using a US$10 Wi-Fi repeater or range extender improves not only the range but also the video quality transmission.
Also, software hacks like TALS (free) and Altitude Limit for Tello (US$ 0.99) – but both are available only for iOS devices– can extend the 10 meter height limit of this little drone to 10x or 100 meters. Be careful though as the vision positioning systemof the drone gets compromised at over 10 meters.
Accessories for the Tello are also inexpensive like the US$29 GameSir T1d Bluetooth controller and about US$ 15 to $25 for a 3 to 4 battery-charging hub. Extra original batteries -made by FullyMax– are about US$19.
These prices might be even lower if you get the Ryze Tello in ‘bundle deals‘. I once saw a DJI stall inside a very popular shopping mall in downtown San Francisco selling the Ryze Tello with an extra battery for as low as US$ 89.
All in all, for about US$ 200, you can truly enjoy the thrills of R/C flying -or, shall I say, drone flying- without the nasty additional expenses associated with the learning experience alone.
Once you had mastered -it’s so easy-flying this tiny toy drone or, simply has grown tired of it but truly enjoys aerial photography, then, you could upgrade to a DJI Spark…and then to a Mavic Air, Mavic 2 or Pro.
April 2019 update:
In late 2018, a new app -available only for Android- called Tello FPV + RTH was released by a German hobbyist called Volate!lo. Priced at $5.49, the feature-rich app made the Ryze Tello drone much more capable particularly the return-to-home feature in spite of the unit’s lack of a GPS.
Last November 2018, Ryze sold their Tello Boost Combo at a discounted price of only $99 (plus tax) from the current/regular price of $149 (plus tax) at DJI’s website.
The package includes the Tello drone, two (2) sets of spare propellers, three (3) original FullyMax flight batteries, a 3-battery charging hub and the USB cable.
All the contents in the Boost Combo set would have easily cost between $150 to $170 if purchased individually.
It was such a steal that I couldn’t resist but to get one as a spare unit.
Also, early this year, Ryze Tech released an Iron Man Edition of their best-selling beginner drone for die-hard Marvel fans and currently sells for US$ 129 (plus tax).
It is essentially the same Tello unit except for the Iron Man-themed protective shell, colors and trims of predominantly metallic-red and gold. This special edition Tello also comes with its very own app called Tello Hero.
Note that you can use the standard Tello app to fly the Iron Man Edition Tello aircraft but you can’t use the special Tello Hero app to fly the $99 ‘ordinary edition’ Tello.
But, of course, you can also use the much better Tello FPV +RTH app by VolaTe!lo on the Iron Man Edition unit.
A must-buy for all Marvel fans and avid Tello flyers!
Today, I received my Amazon Fire TV Cube right at my doorsteps and was able to set it up in about half an hour including the installation of all my apps — mostly to watch TV shows and movies all over the web.
I would admit it’s a fascinating yet cheap -got it at the pre-sale price of $89– device but only if these factors are present in your setup:
Very fast internet connection – the unit has dual-band WiFi ac built-in but an Ethernet (10/100) adapter is included with the set
A Smart 4K (UHD) TV (recommended) or any TV that uses an HDMI input
And, if you have an AV system, the receiver(s) -the TV provider box and/or the home theater receiver- must be compatible
It was only a few years back -January 2015 to be exact- when Amazon launched their very first salvo in the home automation market with the Amazon Echo.
They had since integrated the core Alexa ‘far-field voice control and recognition’ technology from the Echo into almost all their line-up of devices including the cheapest Fire TV Stick.
Now with the Fire TV Cube, Amazon had one-upped again the competition by crossing-over an Echo with the capabilities of today’s web-connected TVs and audio systems.
While the Echo was such a ground-breaking gadget in itself that led Apple and Google to release their own incarnations in the HomePod & Google Home respectively, the Fire TV Cube clearly targets a market segment dominated by Fremont, California-based Logitech: the smart-universal remote control.
Although the Fire TV Cube set includes the similar remote that comes with any Alexa-built-in Fire TV devices (note: the first 2 generations of the Fire TV devices didn’t have Alexa), it is mainly used to enter information like usernames & passwords to services like Hulu, Sling, Netflix, YouTube, etc., as well as to install and to operate open-source apps.
Amazon advertises the Fire TV Cube as a device to “control your TV hands free from across the room” but the applications and possible uses are so much more than that — all in a very, very small package.
Update: Sometime in October of 2018, Amazon came up with a new version of the Alexa Voice Remote (2nd generation) with TV control for the Fire TV series and now comes bundled with the latest Fire TV Stick (4K) and the Fire TV Cube. By itself, the new remote costs $30.
It now has dedicated buttons for power, mute & volume (up/down) – to control some TV functions.
However, the new remote is compatible only with newer versions of the Fire TV Stick, Fire TV Stick (4K), Fire TV (3rd gen – pendant style) and the Fire TV Cube.
Amazon had also discontinued the original, square Fire TV with built-in Ethernet series as well as the Fire TV (3rd-gen, pendant style).
While we don’t want our computer hardware to fail at all or even while still under its warranty period but its a fact of life that some of them do.
In my case, I thought solid state drives (SSDs) would be more reliable than a conventional one because the former has no mechanical or moving components.
I was dead wrong.
In a span of a week, two (2) – one (a 120 GB PNY CS1311) was used as a back-up in a Mac while the other (a 480 GB OCZ-Toshiba ARC100) was the primary drive in a custom-made PC- of my SSDs failed that left me scrambling to look for their invoices up in our attic.
Luckily, I had saved those receipts and that both SSDs are still within their warranty periods. Majority of SSD manufacturers these days offer a 3-year warranty for their entry-level to mid-range models. Some high-end units (usually the ‘enterprise’ models) get from 5 to 10-year warranty periods.
So this was my RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) experience for the two products:
For the 480 GB ARC100 by OCZ-Toshiba, my expense waszero and I had my replacement SSD in hand just after four (4) days of filing the RMA. Currently, they have the best warranty program in the industry with their “Advanced Warranty Program” for most of their SSDs including some ‘legacy‘ (aka: obsolete) models.
After they had received a copy of the receipt (proof of purchase as well as to confirm if it’s still under warranty) via email, a UPS Ground return label was included with the RMA number. The next day, they promptly shipped a replacement SSD via UPS 2-day service.
OCZ-Toshiba’s customer support was very professional, straightforward and excellent. No nagging and unnecessary questions. Moreover, you are constantly notified via email of the entire RMA process. This is what customer service/support is all about.
For the 120 GB CS1311 made by PNY, my expense came toabout $10 –shipping back the defective unit via USPS Priority Mail to their support center in Parsippany, New Jersey- and I had the replacement SSD in hand eleven (11) days after I filed for an RMA number.
It could have taken more time had I not sent the defective unit back via USPS Priority Mail which usually take just two (2) business days. PNY shipped the replacement only after they had received the bad SSD and utilized the cheaper but slower UPS Ground service.
To its credit, PNY’s customer support was also prompt and straightforward but it lacked the same attention to details as OCZ-Toshiba. And, they didn’t send follow-up emails to inform how the entire RMA process had evolved. You had to constantly go to a link they had provided after the RMA # was issued to check on its status.
Verdict: Hands down, OCZ-Toshiba was the winner with its “no-cost to the consumer approach” and very fast turnaround.
That’s why a product’s warranty is the only protection consumers have for their hard-earned money.
And, how companies go about honoring their warranties spell the difference between respectability and plain money-grab.
So, when buying a solid state drive make sure that you save those receipts and keep them inside an envelope as most of them are printed out in thermal paper. Prolonged light exposure will erase all the information and render them useless.
NOTE: Both OCZ-Toshiba and PNY replaced their defective units with brand-new, in retail-box sets.
Sometime in May of this year, my six year old (purchased in January 2011) Sony Dash Personal Internet Viewer (HID-C10) received a control panel update to inform me that service for the device would end in July.
The last firmware update (from version 1.7.1461 to 1.7.1526) was done on April 08, 2016 after the device had issues “downloading the main control panel” and rendered it useless.
Over the 6+ years that I had owned the unit, there were intermittent issues with Sony’s backend servers that kept it inactive. But, Sony was always able to come up with firmware updates to keep the service going — until July of this year.
The Sony Dash is a small tabletop alarm clock-radio-weather/gadget with a 7″ touchscreen that sold for $199 when initially released in April 2010. Its functionality relied 100% on the Internet, hence, WiFi (a/g) is built-in.
Aside from the beautiful design, the main attraction of the gadget, just like a smartphone, is its capability to load additional “widgets” (or, apps) via its built-in memory. It enabled owners to stream videos and music from content providers like Netflix, YouTube, Amazon, Pandora, Slacker, Sony Music, etc. There are also thousands of other useful widgets that ranged from the arts to zoology.
And so, one day in July of this year, I saw the dreaded firmware update – 1.7.1604– that would turn an otherwise very useful device into a door stopper.
Of course, I did not do the firmware update but, instead, called Sony’s customer service (in the U.S., it’s: 1-800-222-7669) to ask them what to do with a useless unit.
To the company’s credit, it promptly replaced a product that had reached its ‘end-of-life’(aka, planned obsolescence), with a choice of either an alarm clock/AM-FM radio(ICF-C1) or a Bluetooth speaker (XB10) after I e-mailed the image of the unit’s serial number.
When the replacement ICF-C1 clock-radio arrived a week later via FedEx (shipping also paid by Sony), I grabbed the Dash that sat atop one of my stereo speakers – still with the ‘Update available’ screen- and yanked out its power supply.
Meanwhile, somewhere in San Diego, a guy had been very busy writing code to port the Dash (running firmware 1.7.1526) to make it work with Chumby.com’s server(s) after Sony’s May software update alert.
Chumby (now, operated by Blue Octy, LLC) is a small company behind a line of very affordable internet viewers similar to the Dash. In fact, the Dash runs on an OS that was simply modified from the Chumby OS.
Finally, in early August, Blue Octy released the software patch (but only for the Dash HID-C10 model) that resurrected some Dash units. The patch is chumby-HIDC10-1.0.0.zip. It could also be downloaded here.
So, if you have an HID-C10 Sony Dash, just make sure that your unit is running firmware 1.7.1526. If you had accidentally installed firmware 1.7.1604 and bricked the unit, simply revert back to firmware 1.7.1526 via the instructions here before applying the patch.
If you applied the patch correctly, you should have restored some usefulness to your Dash such as the clock, weather and a few radio stations. A $3 monthly subscription fee would enable one to get numerous apps as well as multiple channels on this gadget that — simply, refuses to go away.
If you’re a hard-core music enthusiast but still listens to your collections on your phone, then, you’re missing out a lot.
And, if you’re an Apple fan boy still buying songs through the iTunes Store and listening them through your iPhone or iPad, then, you’re simply paying a hefty premium for the brand.
Songs bought off the Apple store are encoded in Apple’s version of the venerated (specially during the Napster years) MP3 format, AAC (Apple Audio Codec). It is streamed at 128 kbps bit rate with a sample rate of 44.100 kHz. AAC (and, MP3) is a ‘lossy’ format but is very popular due to its small file size as a result of compression.
Although you could rip all your CDs to a lossless format within iTunes using ALAC (Apple Lossless Audio Codec), the resulting files are huge and are playable only in, of course, Apple’s devices.
FLAC (Free Lossless Audio Codec) is an open-source musical format that will give you bit-perfect copies of CDs. Not only that, it also supports ‘tags’ that enable you to retain artists, album covers, lyrics, etc., on the format.
With FLAC, you’re not only getting half the space occupied by a CD with no loss in quality but you’re also going to be able to get up to 24-bit at 192 kHz of music. That’s studio-master quality. Clearly, MP3 and AAC are no match for FLAC.
Rare is the true high-definition audio enthusiast that listens to his FLAC collection on a smartphone. For Android phone users, even with the rock-bottom prices of microSD cards these days, its just so obvious that smartphone makers are just too focused to make the camera features better.
And for iPhone users, it’s going to look ugly if you want to stick-in a Lightning-capable microSD card adapterto expand the memory capacity of the unit as there’s no memory expansion slot on those phones. And, the saddest part of all, you can only transfer pictures and videos using the adapter –no music files. Apple simply wants you to pay $970 for their top-of-the-line unit with 256 GB built-in.
But even most high-end smartphones from Samsung and Apple don’t have the top-tier, audiophile-grade chips to support FLAC at 192 kHz/24-bit nor they offer native DSD (direct stream digital) decoding which is the best way to listen to streaming music.
While high-quality audio always comes with a price, this doesn’t mean that you’ll have to break your piggy-bank. So, what are the cheaper options?
For content, there’s nothing that will beat allflac.com. The U.K-based music website has one of the cheapest rates around and you’ll be surprised to find some of the songs that you can’t find elsewhere including the iTunes Music Store.
What’s more, not only they have albums for as low as $1.99 but you can also download them in either FLAC, M4A and MP3 (or, all) format. There is no membership fee and you can fund your account for as low as $10 with no balance expiration.
There are a handful of high-definition audio players available specially in Asia, Europe and the North American markets including the Kickstarter-funded, Neil Young-backed PonoPlayer as well as from well-known companies like Sony, Onkyo and Pioneer and others.
But one company stands out because of their low price without sacrificing quality: FiiO.
Highly recommended to budding audio enthusiasts with limited budgets would be the FiiO X1 (2nd generation) model. It retails for US$120 but could be had for as low as US$80 discounted if you shop around.
It’s a mid-entry model but surely not lacking in features found in their more expensive ones. Most importantly, it supports microSD cards up to 256 GB or approximately 8,700 plus FLAC songs (at 30 MB per song). That’s a lot of studio-master quality tunes to keep you in the groove.
The company’s catchphrase is “Born for Music and Happy” and, indeed, you’ll be more than happy once you had listened to some of your music collections – in the FLAC format. Of course, using one of their portable high-definition players.
While the GPS had become sort of a norm in our daily lives when it got incorporated in cell phones, wearable gadgets like the Apple Watch, Microsoft’s Band, Google’s Glass and other wearable technologies are doomed to fail until they find a solution on how to: 1) Power them for a very long time before recharging them 2) How to recharge them really, really fast and, 3) The battery should be end-user replaceable.
Wearable gadgets have the same dilemma as pure electric car makers. Who wants to drive an electric car across America and wait for an hour or two each time when recharging their vehicles? As if waiting for that car ahead of you in a Costco gas station is not long enough.
And, what happens to the car when the battery drains out and could no longer hold a charge? Unless they make pure electric cars very, very cheap, but, you don’t want to throw away that car when the batteries drain out like you dispose of a tablet or phone with a non-end-user replaceable battery.
Early adapters of pure electric cars either have a lot of money (AKA: status symbol) or just like to take advantage of the Federal and State incentives like rebates and access to carpool lanes.
So, the issues plaguing wearables – most specially, watches – today is that end-users don’t like to charge these gizmos each and every night or day after using them.
Our power strip is too full already of those power bricks — don’t give us another one just for a freaking watch.
The same way that it makes more sense to buy a hybrid than a pure electric car, buying that wearable gadget makes more sense if the next time you’ll recharge it would be after a month or more.
Until then, I’ll stick with the Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
After almost nine years of faithful service, my beloved 20″ Princeton monitor finally had to be handed over to the recycler. It was hooked-up on most occasions to my server – that had seen three (3) revisions – located in one of our bedrooms. I was able to save it on its 5th year, after simply replacing a couple of bad capacitors.
As a replacement, I yanked away the 24″ Acer HD monitor that was attached to one of the PCs in our living room. And since it happened only in late August of this year, it is running the latest version of Windows — 10 but I couldn’t recall what build it was then. Currently, it’s version 10.0 Build 10586.
I had been longing to set my hand on a 4K monitor for quite a while but their prices had been very prohibitive for the casual user. Compared to conventional HD (1920 x 1080) monitors that had seen their prices fall to their lowest these days, a 4K monitor will still set you back at about the US$400 – $700 range for the 27″-28″ varieties.
It is also worth noting that bigger-sized 4K (UHD) television prices are incredibly much lower than their smaller-sized 4K monitor cousins.
To my surprise, in early September, while checking my e-mails, I stumbled upon an offer by the old, reliable electronics store chain store in the Bay Area for a 28″ 4K monitor for a reasonable $250 if you’ll buy it using their new marketing gimmick — promo codes.
A few hours later after I hopped on the car, I had already unboxed and connected the shiny 28″, 4K monitor to the living room PC.
It has inputs for two (2) DisplayPort, two (2) HDMI, one (1) DVI, one (1) headphone and a power connector. The set also came complete with the necessary cables for the three (3) types of video inputs mentioned above.
My enthusiasm was cut short after I found out that my video card, although it has both DisplayPort and HDMI connectors, can’t handle the requirements needed to power the 4K monitor at the higher 60 Hz screen refresh rate.
Using DisplayPort, it only ran the 3840 x 2160 resolution at 30 Hz which rendered the entire Windows 10 experience very, very frustrating: the screen was erratic and raggedy.
The video card only has the DisplayPort v 1.1 while v 1.2 is needed – DisplayPort versions don’t apply on the cables as long as it’s certified to comply with the DP standards – to drive the 4K monitor at the proper refresh rate of 60 Hz.
After another trip to the same store to purchase the correct video card (an AMD Radeon R9-390X – and, ok, this cost me a lot more than the bargain 4K monitor), a more robust power supply from Thermaltake to drive all the components without hiccup plus a new, slimmer version of DisplayPort cable which I made sure was certified, I was all set.
I booted the PC and found out that I was now running at 3840 x 2160 at 60 Hz with everything looking sharp but very small.
No problem. This is the latest baby of Microsoft and Windows 10 Pro should easily handle the idiosyncrasies of display-scaling. Just click the Windows icon, Settings, Display and ‘Change the size of text, apps and other items’, slide it to, say, 200% and everything’s reasonably bigger. Well, except for a few 3rd-party apps.
To further test it out, I ran all the experimental ‘El Fuente’ 4K clips on Netflix as well as on other sites which host 4K video clips. I was in 4K heaven. Or, so I thought.
The issues started to show up when the PC comes out of hibernation or sleep mode. It was specially noticeable in Microsoft’s Edge browser. The fonts in the address bar in all the open tabs as well as on the window prompt when you try to close the browser were all gibberish.
On occasions, the fonts also become weird on other functions like when you try to shutdown the PC. There were also times when the AMD video driver would suddenly terminate for no reason at all. And, I had no recourse but to stop an application and/or restart the PC.
The issue is definitely DisplayPort hardware related since all these problems disappeared after I tried running the PC using the HDMI cable at 1920 x 1080. But what’s the whole point of getting a 4K monitor and those other expensive hardware only to run the unit at the same HD resolution?
The techie in me tried all the possible solutions like reinstalling the latest video drivers, updating the BIOS, trying out the other DP and HDMI ports on both the monitor and video card, using an app called ‘Windows 10 DPI Fix’, modifying the registry, swapping out video cables as well as tweaking all the possible combinations in the 4K monitor’s on-screen menu settings.
These woes went on for almost a month until I decided to just use the HDMI cable at the lower 1920 x 1080 resolution for the entire day. Since I just left the other video cables – DP and DVI – dangling at the back of the 4K monitor, I also connected the DP cable to the video card.
Typically, you only use either DisplayPort or HDMI but not both on the same monitor. However, since XP, Windows has the ability to detect and configure multiple monitors.
Connecting both the DisplayPort and HDMI cables at the back of my video card and configuring Windows 10 in the display settings to output the seemingly dual monitor settings to ‘Show only on 1’ helped boost the video signals going to the 4K monitor after the PC emerges from hibernation or sleep mode.
While the above-mentioned procedure did not totally fix the font-garbling issues, it had not only eliminated most of the problems like the self-terminating video drivers, constant lock-ups and reboots but also improved the overall clarity of the 4K monitor.
And, while I wait for the next Windows 10 and video driver updates, I’ll keep looking for the ultimate solution to totally enjoy ultra high definition on the PC.
The world is constantly changing. More so in the very fast-paced environment of technology.
These days, you had just bought a shiny-new, state-of-the-art phone, tablet or any gadget for that matter today, and, tomorrow, it’s already obsolete. So, while you were sleeping, a new feature or model is already being tooled in an unspecified factory in China — waiting to be shipped-out to consumers “in just a few more weeks or, even days”
I had been an Apple/Mac head since the days of the Apple II in the late 70s. More so, when the original 128K Macintosh came out in 1984. During those days, using them made practical sense (except for the price, of course), since the Mac – with its GUI – was really far superior to DOS-based PCs. It took Microsoft a couple of years later, to come out with its first GUI – Windows 1.01 or “Presentation Manager.”
After Windows XP became the global OS standard, the Mac, once again, became the a “niche-market” machine – used only by die-hard Apple fans, musicians, video-editors and “me-to-Apple-user-johnny-come-latelies.”
In the wake of my Apple fanaticism during those days, my attic is now crammed with odds and ends of old Macs, Apple IIs, PowerBooks and their various accessories — external drives, various cables, dot-matrix printers, mice, cameras, scanners, add-on cards and assorted software and manuals.
So, after almost 35 years, I’m picking and working – while reminiscing the good, old days when these tech goodies where state-of-the art – on most of them these days to be able to sell them to collectors so that I can finance a trip that I had long wanted to do — an overland tour across South America – ala- Che Guevarra’s “Motorcycle Diaries.” But, most probably, without the motorcycle.
These vintage Macs, with the exception of the form-factor, have varying idiosyncrasies — down to the batteries that power the clock and settings when the Mac is turned off.
The original 128K Mac released in 1984 has a seemingly plain-looking AA battery –1.5v DC right? No, it’s 4.5v.
The Mac SE used a 3.6v battery that came in 1/2 AA size while the Mac LC 575 used a 4.5v battery that was in the shape of a cube. Good luck if you can still purchase these batteries today. I’ve scoured all the major electronic stores in our area for the 4.5v cubed battery and came up empty-handed. And, even if you chanced upon one online, expect to pay for an arm and a leg for these batteries!
Now, let’s talk about diskette drives. Yes, those electro-mechanical contraptions that gobble-up either the 3.5″ or the 5.25″ plastic discs inside, reads the information and passes that to the CPU for processing. The original Mac was among the first PCs to make the 3.5″ disk format as a standard.
The late Steve Jobs was a big fan of Japanese companies particularly, Sony Corp that, during those days, Macs came with CRTs and disk drives made by Sony. Even his later venture, NEXT, came up with servers whose components were made by Sony, Toshiba, TEAC, Alps, etc.
Again, the original 1984 Mac came with Sony’s 3.5″ disk drives that read/write single-sided 400K diskettes. But, during that era, most PCs use the 5.25″ diskette format. In order to access the PC data, you will have to use an external Apple 5.25″ diskette drive that has a DB-9 port. And, even before Apple came up with the ADB (Apple Desktop Bus), the 1984 Mac has a special connector for the keyboard that looks like a telephone jack.
My saga that dealt with the various formats and ports in vintage Macs began when I was trying to load the appropriate OS on the Mac SE and Color Classic unto their respective hard drives.
While both used 50-pin SCSI drives as storage, they have -as you guessed – different internal diskette drives. The former has a lower capacity 800K drive while the latter used a 1.44 MB drive (back then, Apple already nicknamed it, ‘SuperDrive’ – for its ability to read/write all the various diskette formats during those days). As expected, both drives were manufactured by Sony Corp.
Now, if you don’t have an external SCSI CD-ROM – and the appropriate CDs to load the OSes – you will have to make do with loading the OSes via the diskette drives.
And, where to get those 3.5″, 800K & 1.44 MB diskettes these days is just the beginning of my vintage Mac odyssey.